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#1 Posted : Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:28:36 PM
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Location: Houston, TX
I get a lot of emails and PM's asking some great questions. I will be adding some of them here to help you guys find the answers faster. I get a little busy and get behind on my emails sometimes. Please feel free to ask a question here for all to see.

Chris
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#2 Posted : Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:27:09 PM
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Chris,

Just installed a 278 MM converter in a 2000 WS6 Trans Am. On the first test drive the vehicle shifted and acted as it should. A few four mile test drives later the Stall really seemed to "work" and show the beauty of the converter. The only think I started to notice is the shift point started to get higher and higher. Now it wont shift until 6200 RPM (out of first). I think I need to have the vehicle programmed.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

JN
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#3 Posted : Friday, March 19, 2010 7:45:47 AM
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Guest wrote:
Chris,

Just installed a 278 MM converter in a 2000 WS6 Trans Am. On the first test drive the vehicle shifted and acted as it should. A few four mile test drives later the Stall really seemed to "work" and show the beauty of the converter. The only think I started to notice is the shift point started to get higher and higher. Now it wont shift until 6200 RPM (out of first). I think I need to have the vehicle programmed.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

JN


Definitely need to get a scanner on it to see what is going on. The 278mm does not typically need a tune. Get a scanner on it to see what the computer is calling for.

Chris
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Skeet12
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 1:30:06 PM
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I'm interested in the results of this. I will be ordering the same converter (3200 stall) for my 2000 WS6. I have a Diablo but get mixed responses when asking if a tune is needed. Chris says "no" but some on Diablo forum suggest that some shift points may need to be bumped. Any ideas what to look for with the Diablo or will a flash programmer not work. I know I can get some custom programs from Diablo.

Thanks for the great info Chris
2000 WS6
LS6 intake, Magnaflow catback,SFC, Diablo Tune,Lid,Pacesetter LT,TSP catted Y,ported TB, Strano springs, Koni 4/3, UMI adj Panhard & LCA
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TXCAMSS
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 6:07:49 PM
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A common mistake people make after installing a new converter is failing to check the trans fluid after a few miles of driving to make sure all the voids are filled and that the level is good under hot conditions. I'm not sure if this is the case here, but the 4L60Es are very sensitive and need the fluid level to be right in order to shift correctly.

Most smaller/tighter rpm stall converters don't NEED a tune, but I do recommend raising the limiter a few hundred rpm and/or dropping the shift point target to compensate for some over shoot that may take place. The stock limiter settings are pretty close to the stock shift rpm target so you are right on the edge of bumping the limiter with a stock tune. Most have no issue when running a lower rpm stall, but there are always a few cars that have a little more delay in the shift than others. I've owned 2 of them myself.

If you spin at all off the launch, you will almost always over shoot the shift rpm target and bang the limiter if you don't put some space between the shift rpm target and the limiter. It's weird, but it's a common trait. A hand held programmer will handle this easily or a custom tune if you choose that route.

I hope this helps.

BTW- I can tune 2001 F-bodys if you are local. I don't mind helping you guys out in that department.

James
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Skeet12
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 8:39:08 PM
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Thanks James,
I figured if I had trouble I would move the shift points. I know 3200 is not all that high and you can see from my sig I have only bolt ons. I am very comfortable ordering now.
Thanks again, good to know there is support with Circle D from the vendor to other customers.
2000 WS6
LS6 intake, Magnaflow catback,SFC, Diablo Tune,Lid,Pacesetter LT,TSP catted Y,ported TB, Strano springs, Koni 4/3, UMI adj Panhard & LCA
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Skeet12
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 10:11:36 PM
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Chris,
What size trans cooler should I be looking for? I prefer stacked plate design but unsure of BTU rating. I will be installing your 278mm 3200 stall converter. I also plan on bypassing the radiator since I only drive this car in the summer.
Thanks
2000 WS6
LS6 intake, Magnaflow catback,SFC, Diablo Tune,Lid,Pacesetter LT,TSP catted Y,ported TB, Strano springs, Koni 4/3, UMI adj Panhard & LCA
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#8 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 2:51:10 PM
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Here is the one I use. It fits good on F-Bodys and has a little extra cooling capacity. It's good to have more than you need when running any stall converter IMO.

http://marylandspeed.com...-gvw-bm-70264-p-655.html
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#9 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 3:53:24 PM
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That is a good price and good size on a cooler. I don't think you can have to much cooling. I have some guys who use double coolers with fans. They see a max of 150 and don't have any ill side effects. The plate style is the best as well. Something in the 20K range and above should be good.

Chris
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#10 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 3:55:18 PM
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TXCAMSS wrote:

A common mistake people make after installing a new converter is failing to check the trans fluid after a few miles of driving to make sure all the voids are filled and that the level is good under hot conditions. I'm not sure if this is the case here, but the 4L60Es are very sensitive and need the fluid level to be right in order to shift correctly.

Most smaller/tighter rpm stall converters don't NEED a tune, but I do recommend raising the limiter a few hundred rpm and/or dropping the shift point target to compensate for some over shoot that may take place. The stock limiter settings are pretty close to the stock shift rpm target so you are right on the edge of bumping the limiter with a stock tune. Most have no issue when running a lower rpm stall, but there are always a few cars that have a little more delay in the shift than others. I've owned 2 of them myself.

If you spin at all off the launch, you will almost always over shoot the shift rpm target and bang the limiter if you don't put some space between the shift rpm target and the limiter. It's weird, but it's a common trait. A hand held programmer will handle this easily or a custom tune if you choose that route.

I hope this helps.

BTW- I can tune 2001 F-bodys if you are local. I don't mind helping you guys out in that department.

James


Really good info as always James, thanks!!

Chris
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#11 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:43:31 PM
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Chris,

i need a converter. i have a 1997 GMC K1500 and want something that stalls to 3000 RPM, i was looking at this converter...
http://www.circledspecia...s-torque-converter.aspx

is there any reason it wouldnt work in my truck? IF it wont, what converter do you have that will get me my desired stall speed?
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circled
#12 Posted : Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:20:22 PM
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Guest wrote:
Chris,

i need a converter. i have a 1997 GMC K1500 and want something that stalls to 3000 RPM, i was looking at this converter...
http://www.circledspecia...s-torque-converter.aspx

is there any reason it wouldnt work in my truck? IF it wont, what converter do you have that will get me my desired stall speed?



That is for a LS style 4L60e. You will need a LT style. We have the 298mm option and a 258mm billet option.

Chris
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#13 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 3:56:10 PM
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Chris,

Do you still offer the 4R100 rebuild kits?

Also, what converter/stall would you recommend for a 2.3 Whipple (16psi), TFS Heads, cams, L/Ts, forged motor putting down 550-600 rwhp?

Thanks!
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